Diy Fork Seal Driver For Mac
Keeping your Vehicles in its peak operating condition requires much more than an oil change every now and then. A watchful eye must be kept on the motorcycle's fork, which relies on an oil-damping system to compensate Vehicles changes in the road's surface.
Although the Vehicles fork is fairly durable, the seals that keep the oil within the fork legs are susceptible to wear over time. A slick, oily film on the fork's tubes is the first sign of trouble. If you spot a leak, don't ride your motorcycle until the fork seals have been replaced.
Coat the new seal with fork oil and seat it with the fork seal driver. Install the drain plug and dust boot. Use a large syringe to squirt 240 cc (1980-1981) or 290 cc (1982-1983) into the compressed air opening in the fork cap.
Loosen the two mounting clamps at the top of each fork using an Allen wrench. Pull forks from the clamps and lean the forks on the body of the 450R. Place the blade of the screwdriver between the edge of the seal and the fork. Pry the fork seal off the fork but make sure you don't damage the fork.
Pull the seal up and off the front forks. Slide the new Honda 450R front fork seals down the forks.
Force the seals into place on the forks using your hands. The seals will make snapping sounds when they lock into place. Place the forks in the mounting clamps. Tighten the clamps using the Allen wrench. Items you will need. Bike lift. 1/2-inch Allen wrench.
Flat-head screwdriver. Replacement 450R fork seals How to Change Fork Seals on a Yamaha V Star 1100 Support the motorcycle on a service lift or jack. Remove the front brake caliper from the lower fork legs using a 12-mm socket and a socket wrench. Loosen the pinch bolt of the bottom of the right lower fork leg with a 12-mm socket wrench.
Unscrew the front axle with a 17-mm socket, then pull it out from the front fork and wheel. Roll the wheel away from the motorcycle. Unscrew the front fender's bolts with a 10-mm socket, then remove the fender from the fork legs. Remove one fork leg at a time. Loosen the pinch bolts on the upper and lower fork clamps using a 6-mm Allen wrench. Loosen the bolt on the rear of the forward turn signal assembly, positioned on the upper fork tube and just above the lower fork clamp, using a 10-mm socket. Pull the fork leg out from the bottom of the fork clamps and place it in a soft-jawed vise, facing the fork's top cap upward.
Unscrew the top cap from the upper fork tube using a 22-mm socket. Maintain a downward pressure on the the top cap to prevent it from being flung outward by the fork's internal spring. Remove the top cap and pull the cap's washer, the fork spring and the spring seat out of the upper fork tube.
Remove the fork leg from your vise. Hold the top of the fork tube over a container and pour out the fork's oil supply.
Pump the fork tube repeatedly to force out any trapped oil. Place the lower fork leg horizontally into your vise.
Slide the fork spring into the fork tube, then loosely screw the top cap into place with a 22-mm socket. Push the fork tube into the lower fork leg and hold it in place.
Unscrew the damper rod bolt, positioned at the bottom of the fork leg, using an 8-mm Allen wrench. Release the fork tube and remove the top cap and spring.
Pull the rubber dust boot off of the top of the lower fork leg and slide it off of the upper fork tube. Pry out the oil seal circlip from the top of the fork leg with a flat screwdriver. Remove the fork tube from the lower fork leg, using a back-and-forth motion to pull the tube, fork seal and damping rod out of the fork leg. Pull the seal off of the fork tube. Coat the bottom of the fork tube with fresh 10W fork oil, then slide it into the lower fork leg.
Reinsert the fork spring into the fork tube, then loosely screw the top cap into place with a 22-mm socket. Push the fork tube into the lower fork leg and hold it in place. Screw the damper rod bolt into the bottom of the fork leg using an 8-mm Allen wrench. Release the fork tube and remove the top cap. Coat a new fork seal with 10W fork oil and slide it down the fork tube. Seat the fork seal with a seal driver, then slip the seal's circlip into place. Slide the rubber dust boot down the fork tube and onto the top of the lower fork leg.
Diy Fork Seal Driver For Mac Download
Remove the fork leg from your vise, then pour up to 15.5 fluid oz. Of 10W fork oil into the top of the fork tube. Screw the top cap into place with a 22-mm socket. Slide the fork tube up and through the motorcycle's fork clamps.
Tighten the fork clamp pinch bolts with a 6-mm Allen wrench. Tighten the froward turn signal assembly's bolt with a 10-mm socket. Replace the remaining fork's seal following the method shown above. Reinstall the fork leg. Reassemble the front wheel, brake calipers and fender in the reverse order of removal.
Items you will need. Service lift or jack. 10-, 12-, 17- and 22-mm sockets. Socket wrench. 6- and 8-mm Allen wrenches. Soft-jawed vise.
Container. Flat screwdriver. 10W fork oil. Fork seals How to Change Fork Seals on a Harley Lift the motorcycle using a motorcycle jack until the front wheel clears the ground. Ensure the motorcycle is securely tied down to the jack. Remove the brake clevis pin at the brake lever, brake shoe anchor and centering bolt on motorcycles built before 1972.
Remove the axle nut, fork slider cap nuts, speedometer cable and brake caliper on motorcycles built from 1973 on. Push the axle out of the wheel using a hammer and drift. Remove the wheel from the front fork assembly, making sure not to lose any spacers from the wheel hub. Remove the fork tube cap. The cap is under mild spring tension; use caution when removing the cap. Use the correct size socket on the cap to prevent damage to the nut. Place a drain pan under the forks, and remove the fork slider lower bolt.
Pull the fork tube out of the slider, and allow the fork oil to drain. The slider bolt is located at the bottom of the fork tube inside the axle saddle. Some models are equipped with a fork oil drain plug on the side of the slider tube near the axle. Discard the used fork oil in accordance with local disposal laws. Remove the oil seal lock-ring using lock-ring pliers. Pry the oil seal out of the fork slider using a dull flat-tip screwdriver. Use caution that the inner and outer surface of the slider is not damaged when the seal is removed.
Inspect the fork tube, fork slider tube and wheel assembly for damage. Repair or replace any damaged or worn-out parts as required.
Grease the outside of the new oil seal, and push the seal into the fork slider. Use a socket of the same size as the seal to help push it into the slider until it seats at the bottom of the seal well. Replace the oil seal lock-ring, and ensure it has snapped completely into the ring groove. Slide the fork slider onto the fork tube, and fasten the original screw and washer.
Tighten the fork slider screw to 11 ft-lbs. Fill the fork tube with the correct amount and type of fork oil. Consult the manufacturer's specifications for specific information on your model of motorcycle. Pour the measured oil from a graduated measuring cup into the top of the fork tube with a funnel. Tighten the fork tube cap to 11 ft-lbs. Using the correct size socket.
Reinstall the front wheel onto the fork sliders Push the front axle through the sliders and wheel hub, making sure that any spacers are reinstalled in the correct locations. Replace the brake clevis pin at the brake lever, the brake shoe anchor and centering bolt on motorcycles built before 1972. Replace the axle nuts, fork slider cap nuts, speedometer cable and brake caliper on motorcycles built from 1973 on.
Tighten the axle nuts to 50 ft-lbs. Items you will need. Motorcycle jack. Socket set. Hammer. Drift. Combination wrench set.
Drain pan. Lock-ring pliers. Dull flat-tip screwdriver. Oil seal. Fork oil.
Funnel. Graduated measuring cup.
Torque wrench How to Change the Fork Seals of a CX500 Remove the front wheel from the motorcycle. Remove the two bolts holding the brake caliper to the fork and remove it. Tie up the caliper with wire to avoid tension on the brake line. Remove the front fender. Loosen the upper triple clamp bolt. Loosen but do not remove the top fork cap. Loosen the lower clamp bolt, and slide the fork out.
Hold the fork tube in a vise with soft jaws. Do not overtighten the vise to prevent bending the tube. Remove the upper fork plug from the fork tube. Slide the spring out. Remove the fork from the vise, and turn it upside-down, pouring out the fork oil. Pump the fork by hand several times to ensure that most of the oil has been removed. Clamp the fork base in the vise, and remove the Allen bolt at the bottom.
Pull the fork tube out of the bottom case. Remove the dust seal from the bottom of the fork tube, then remove the clip that holds in the fork seal.
Carefully pry the seal out of the lower half of the fork assembly, careful not to cause any damage. Clean all parts with solvent. Using a fork seal driver, install the new seal in the lower half of the fork leg, spring side down. Replace the clip and dust seal.
Use a new dust seal if the old one is cracked or damaged. Install the upper fork tube and parts into the fork. Screw on, but do not tighten the upper fork cap. Screw the Allen screw back into the bottom of the fork using a new copper washer. Remove the cap and pour in the recommended amount of fork oil. Screw the cap back on, using a new O-ring. Install the fork in the triple clamps, tightening the lower bolt to specification.
Tighten the fork cap to the proper specification before tightening the upper bolt to the proper specs. Install the fender, the brake caliper and the front wheel. Torque all bolts to specs found in the manual. Pump the suspension a few times to ensure there are no leaks. Pump the front brake lever a few times to reseat the brake pads. Take the bike for a test drive, and check for leaks.
'The best you've ridden is the best you know.' - Paul Thede -Race Tech is here to support you in doing quality suspension work. This includes education like our Suspension Seminars as well as an extensive line of suspension tools. To find which tools are needed for specific models do a. Feel free to give us a call for more information. SHOCK BODY/RESERVOIR HOLDING TOOLS The Shock Body Holding Tool is ideal for clamping WP and Race Tech G3-S reservoirs. Can be sleeved to clamp any smaller tube including Fork Tubes, Shock Bodies etc.
Has four pinch bolts and can be used in a press for additional holding power. Machined from Billet Aluminum. TFSH 58 – TFSH 65 – DAMPING ROD HOLDING TOOL Some Damping Rods are difficult to remove because they spin. Making a special tool for each model can be a pain. This simple tool is a tapered aluminum rod. With a tap of a hammer, the taper wedges into the ID of most Damping Rods, late model and vintage. You may be surprised by its holding power!
Many forks come apart easily, but this inexpensive tool is great to have when you need it. TFDH 01 – RACE TECH SUSPENSION BIBLE (by Paul Thede) Based on Paul Thede’s wildly popular Race Tech Seminars taught around the world, this step-by-step guide shows anyone how to make their bike handle the way it should. IBSB 01 – VACUUM MASTER SHOCK FILLER The Vacuum Master Shock Bleeding Tool makes high-tech shock filling more affordable. This machine not only saves time and increases efficiency, but it creates a 'perfect bleed'. The vacuum is so powerful it actually draws air out of the suspension fluid itself! TSVM 01 – FORK SPRING COMPRESSOR (foot-operated, wall mounted) The Foot-Operated Fork Spring Compressor is designed to work on most sport bikes and road racers with cartridge forks.
It allows the spring to be compressed while the fork cap is removed from the rod. This design is wall mounted and really easy to use. TFSC 02 – Our H-D Adapter is recommended by Factory Harley-Davidson for the disassembly of their cartridge forks. TFSC A01 – FORK SPRING COMPRESSOR (portable) Most street bikes with cartridges require a spring compressor. The factory unit is expensive and hard to use. This portable Fork Spring Compressor can be used on or off the bike on many models.
TFSC 01 – FORK SEAL DRIVERS TFSD Series - Fork seal drivers. Split design. These are the standard of the industry. Item Code Diameter TFSD 31 30-31mm TFSD 33 33mm TFSD 35 35mm TFSD 37 36-37mm TFSD 39 38-39mm TFSD 41 40-41mm TFSD 43 42-43mm TFSD 46 45-46mm TFSD 48 47-48mm TFSD 50 49-50mm 24/32/41mm FORK CAP WRENCH This unique tool offers three different sizes to fit a variety of sport bikes. TFCW 243241H - 41-43mm BIG PISTON FORK (BPF) FORK CAP WRENCH This BPF Fork Cap Wrench, along with the Cartridge Holding Tool TFCH 06 fit Showa BPF (Big Piston Forks). These tools are a 'must have' for maintenance of 09- GSX-R1000, 11- GSX-R600, H-D XR1200X, 09- ZX-6R and 11- ZX-10R. TFCW 4549 - SHOWA TWIN-CHAMBER FORK CAP WRENCH Fits 47 and 49mm Showa forks.
Has 46 and 50mm octagons. Removes compression valving assembly on most models too. TFCW 4650 - KYB TWIN-CHAMBER Fits 48mm KYB forks. Has 45 and 49mm octagons. TFCW 4549 - WP 48mm Fits 48mm WP forks that require a special pin spanner wrench (slots - no hex).
40mm pin spacing x 3.2mm pins TFCW 02 - WP 50mm DUAL-CHAMBER Fits KTM WP 48mm Dual Chamber forks that require a large 50mm hex. Also includes 29 spacing x 4.8mm Pin Spanner. TFCW 50H - NITROGEN GAUGE This Nitrogen Gauge does not require a wrench and easily reaches those recessed valve stems without an extension. It comes with a 1/4' flare nut quick coupling to work with the Quick Connect Hose (TSNH 48).
Nitrogen Gauge - TSNG 02 NITROGEN REGULATOR This Nitrogen Regulator is excellent quality. It has output to 300 psi and comes with a 1/4' flare nut quick coupling to work with our Quick Connect Hose.
Nitrogen Regulator - TSNR 01 QUICK CONNECT NITROGEN HOSE The Quick Connect Nitrogen Hose has special 800 psi 'finger tight' 1/4' flare nut quick couplings. This simple assembly works perfectly with our Nitrogen Regulator and Gauge. Nitrogen Hose - TSNH 48 - WP SHOCK NITROGEN CHARGING TOOL The Race Tech WP Nitrogen Charging Tool works on all WP shocks with a reservoir. This tool is quick and easy to use and a 'must have' if you work on a higher volume of WP shocks. TSNC 02 - NITROGEN NEEDLE This tool is designed for gas charged shocks with self-sealing type rubber valves. Used with Nitrogen Gauge - TSNN 01 Nitrogen Charging Needle TPNN 01 Replacement Needle SELF-SEALING NITROGEN CHARGING BOLT The Nitrogen Charging Bolt is a simple replacement of the standard WP Nitrogen Bolt and allows a shock to be pressurized with a standard Nitrogen Needle (TSNN 01).
The OEM WP nitrogen filling system is pricey and cumbersome. These Nitrogen Charging Bolts can also be used to recharge some 'non-rebuildable' shocks. SPNV 0512 - SHOCK SPRING COMPRESSOR (screw type) This Shock Spring Compressor is strong, light-weight and easy to use. It comes with 4 adapters (60, 66, 72, and 75mm) for different size spring collars and both an eyelet and clevis adapter.
Invented by Jason Eldredge of Corporate Suspension in Utah, this one is so cool you’ll want to remove shock springs just for the fun of it. TSSC 02 – SHOCK SPRING COMPRESSOR (lever type) Provides quick removal and installation of most shock springs with spring rates up to 8 kg/mm. Features a Shaft Locking Device for safety. TSSC 01 – RESERVOIR CAP REMOVAL TOOL This tool threads onto the Schrader Valve located on the reservoir cap for easy removal. (Simply screw the tool on and gently pull the cap from the body.) TSCT 01 – CARTRIDGE HOLDING TOOLS TFCH Series - Holds cartridge during disassembly and assembly. View for applications. Item Code Fits TFCH 01 Most KYB and Showa 20mm cartridges TFCH 03 Many KYB 46 & 48mm open chamber forks TFCH 04A Yamaha 06- R6, 09- R1 TFCH 06 BPF 41 & 43mm forks TFCH PS24050 WP KTM 65 Seal Head BIG PISTON FORK SEAL HEAD TOOL Designed to remove and install the seal head assembly from the inner fork tube in 41 and 43mm BPFs.
It is reversable and has two hex sizes for the two sizes of forks. It allows changing fork springs without disassembling the valving stack.
TFCH 06 - SHOWA TAC and KYB Dual Chamber FORK CAP TOOL This is a dual-purpose tool for the Showa SFF Air TAC Fork. This tool allows you to remove the Fork Compression Valve Assembly from the top of the cartridge AND, by reversing it, remove the Base Bolt on the bottom of the fork. It also fits KYB Dual Chamber Compression Caps. TFCT 3602 - SHOCK CLIP TOOL Removes shock retaining clips without digging into the shock bodies.
Made of hardened tool steel. If you work on shocks you'll really like this one! TSCP 01 - SEAL HEAD SETTING TOOLS Four sizes available.
Mini's, Standard 40-50mm, Street and WP PDS 50mm shocks. Allows the user to easily push shock seal heads into the bodies. Item Code Fits TSSS 01 40-50mm TSSS 01S 40-50mm Short TSSS 02 50mm WP TSSS 03 33-36mm SHOCK PRELOAD ADJUSTING TOOL Tired of chewing up your shock spring collars when you adjust preload? Well we've got the tool for you! Can be used aggressively on preload adjusting collars with minimal damage. Many people chuckle at this one untill they try it.
You'll like it. TSPA 01 - WP PDS SHOCK NEEDLE T-HANDLE TOOLS TSPS T Series - This is the PRO version of the needle removal tool.
If you are servicing a lot of WP PDS shocks these are the one to have. It is driven with a T-handle, holds the Needle, and is self-centering in the body. Item Code pin circle x pin diam TSPS T1524 15.0 x 2.4d TSPS T16530 16.5 x 2.4d TSPS T20 20.0 x 2.4d Note: It is ok for the pin diameter can be smaller than the hole it goes in to. WP PDS SHOCK NEEDLE TOOL The WP PDS Shock Needle Tool removes the Compression Needle from the shock body on early KTM WP PDS shocks. This is the most economical way to go (see TSPS T Series T-handle version) but only available for the early model. Required to install a SWCN 10 Telescopic Needle (15.0 pin spacing x 2.4d pins).
For later model PDS shocks see TSPS T Series Pin Spanners. TSPS 1524 - PIN SPANNERS RT Pin Spanners have a unique pin design with a reverse taper to keep them from popping out during assembly and disassembly. 2 pins - 4 sizes total: 4.0 / 4.5 and 5.0 / 5.5mm Item Code Fits TMPS 01 4.0 & 4.5 Pin Spanner TMPS 02 5.0 & 5.5 Pin Spanner TMPS P01P 4.0 & 4.5 Replacement Pins TMPS P02P 5.0 & 5.5 Replacement Pins We also offer other Pin Spanners specific to their applications. These include: TSPS Series - for WP PDS Compression Needles TFCH PS24050 - WP KTM 65 Fork Seal Heads TFCW PS38048 - WP 4CS Fork Caps TFCW 50H - WP 50mm Hex & 29 x 4.8 Pin Spanner Fork Caps SHOWA 50mm SHOCK PISTON RING TOOL Allows removal of the stock shock piston without damaging the piston band on late model Suzuki Showa shocks. The tool fills the circlip groove allowing the piston to slide past without damage.
Fits 2010 -2011 RMZ250/450. TSPR 50 – SAG MASTER Voted as Dirt Bike Magazine's 25 Best Tools Ever Invented, the Sag Master is a tool that makes measuring Static 'Race' Sag a snap because you read it directly. No more subtracting!
Also useful in determining proper spring rates and monitoring linkage and seal drag. Comes with instructions and, doubles as a tape measure! TSSM 01 - T-HANDLE TOOL SET Excellent quality Chrome Vanadium, deep socket, 6 point tools. TTHS 02 - includes 8, 10, 12, 14 and 17mm - FORK BLEEDING TOOL Unique self-starting design easily threads onto the damping rod. Baffled so the oil runs down the rod eliminating the typical mess. Available as a set.
(Works great with the TFSC 01 & 02 Spring Compressors for street applications). TFBT 02S - PRO OIL-LEVEL TOOL Collapsible tube allows setting fork fluid levels with only two hands. Does not require a third hand! TFOL 02 - GRADUATED CYLINDER Accuratly measures fork oil for filling Twin-Chamber forks. 500cc capacity TFGC 500 - CARTRIDGE ROD HOLDING TOOL The Cartridge Rod Holding Tool allows you to more easily service Showa Twin-Chamber as well as most street cartridge forks.
The tool holds back the spring allowing you to get to the bottom nut or the fork cap on the cartridge rod. Plastic design keeps shafts from being marred. TFHP 01 - SHAFT HOLDING TOOLS Holds fork damping rods, cartridges, shock shafts, etc. Unique design allows installation of dowels into the top of the vise jaws. The holding tools hang on the dowels instead of dropping on the ground when the vise is opened. Item code Fits TFSH 10 10,12,12.5,14mm TFSH 14 14,16,18mm TFSH 20 20,24,29mm TFSH 32 32,35mm TFSH S500 1/2' ALUMINUM VISE JAWS Race Tech Vise Jaws gently, yet firmly, hold fork tubes, fork legs and other round objects in a “V” down to a diameter of 12.5mm (½”).
The “V” is offset and overhangs the edge of the standard vise jaw to provide clearance for large diameter tubes. Made to fit 4 to 6.5” Craftsman vises with removable jaws. These jaws have a bolt spacing of both 2.5 and 3 inches and fit other brands. They can be drilled to fit other makes of vises as well.
Pre-drilled for the pins supplied with Race Tech’s Shaft Holding Tools ( TFSH Series). TMVJ 065 - SHOCK SHAFT BUSHING DRIVER SET Used to install shock shaft bushings into seal heads.
Motion Pro Fork Seal Driver
The set comes with 12.5, 14, 16, and 18mm drivers. TSBD SET - SHOCK SEAL 'BULLET' Shock Seal Bullet Tools make installing seal heads onto shock shafts quick and safe. They eliminate the possibility of seal damage when installing the seal head onto the shaft.
This tool is a must for serious tuners. Item code Fits TSSB 125 12.5x10mm TSSB 14 14x12mm TSSB 16 16x12mm TSSB 18 18x16mm TSSB 1812 18x12mm YZ RESERVOIR CAP SETTING TOOL This tool is used to tap the bladder cap down to remove the snap ring on late model YZ's eliminating the possibility of damage to the Schrader Valve. TSRC 01 - 17, 19, 22, 24 mm HEX AXLE TOOL This Axle tool, made of hardened tool steel, fits many sport and dirt bikes. TFHD 1724 - FORK TUBE DISASSEMBLY TOOL Remove and replace fork tubes from fork bottoms (AKA axle clamps, fork lugs, etc).
TFTT 01 - DEBURRING TOOL Removes burrs resulting from grinding factory peening during Fork Gold Valve installation. TMBD 08 - COMPRESSION ADJUSTER SOCKETS Used to service shock compression adjusters. Item code Fits TSCA 01 YZ TSCA 19 19mm TSCA 21 21mm TSCA 24.